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  1. #1
    Crackerjack Driver Controlled Force's Avatar
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    XP 1000 crank seal replacement

    On this field I'm going to cover replacing the crank seal on a XP 1000 unfortunately the motor has to come out and taken completely apart to replace a $20.00 part..

    Now there have been people that claimed they can replace the seal without taking the engine out but after further research I found that it's not a good idea because there's a good chances of damaging the cases

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  2. #2
    Experienced Driver 5150George's Avatar
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    Just asking , how would you damage the case buy replacing the seal with the engine together ? I'm not a mechanic just asking .

  3. #3
    Crackerjack Driver Controlled Force's Avatar
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    That's a good question, there is a machine groove on both top and bottom case halfs and it is extremely difficult to get it out without prying up against the cases. in the pictures coming up you'll see what I'm talking

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  4. #4
    Super Moderator EPL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Controlled Force View Post
    On this field I'm going to cover replacing the crank seal on a XP 1000 unfortunately the motor has to come out and taken completely apart to replace a $20.00 part..

    Now there have been people that claimed they can replace the seal without taking the engine out but after further research I found that it's not a good idea because there's a good chances of damaging the cases

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    This is the first time I have ever seen seal but was wondering if it is large enough to drill a hole in it and use a slide hammer to pull it out ??

  5. #5
    Crackerjack Driver Controlled Force's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EPL View Post
    This is the first time I have ever seen seal but was wondering if it is large enough to drill a hole in it and use a slide hammer to pull it out ??
    I thought about that as well but if you drill just a little too far you'll drill into the aluminum case.

    In this photo you can see the machine Groove that the seal sits in.

    The problem is not pulling the seal out it's pulling the seal with the lip that is part of the seal out together that's the hard part..

    I'm going by the book on this one not willing to gamble on someone's engine

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  6. #6
    Super Moderator EPL's Avatar
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    True !!

  7. #7
    Super Moderator EPL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Controlled Force View Post
    I thought about that as well but if you drill just a little too far you'll drill into the aluminum case.

    In this photo you can see the machine Groove that the seal sits in.

    The problem is not pulling the seal out it's pulling the seal with the lip that is part of the seal out together that's the hard part..

    I'm going by the book on this one not willing to gamble on someone's engine







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    I didn't know the seal had the lip in the rear , your correct it needed to come apart !!

  8. #8
    Bumbling Driver BDacus's Avatar
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    Ben, I know you know this being a qualified mechanic on these things, but for anyone else maybe you can learn from my mistake!

    Oh, yeah, and you CAN NOT get this seal out of the case without pulling motor and splitting case, BELIEVE ME I tried, and yes, I started to damage the case. The "lip" on the seal has metal in it and is VERY stiff / rigid. Digging it out of the case is impossible IMO. Plus, basically I spent 2 hours trying to get the seal out and then spent another 2 hours just pulling the engine.

    When you assemble and silicone the case halves back together (RED) be extra careful around the seal as there are oil passages (YELLOW) that allow the oil to drain back to case. This was the reason I had to do this repair. My seal wasn't bad, but when I reassembled engine from previous mods I got a little carried away with the silicone (yeah, more isn't always better) and I ended up plugging these oil drain passages. When I would start engine it essentially just pumped oil outward through the seal.

    2012 XP4
    Hybrid Z1 Swap
    Big Chute Turbo, Vipec, etc.
    Reno, NV.

  9. #9
    Crackerjack Driver Controlled Force's Avatar
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    The Factory manual is VERY CLEAR about this step when sealing up the cases..

    On another note I'm not a big fan of silicone never have been, I use sealer from Honda or Yamaha IMO...it's the best, I use the same sealer for the Transmissions when I put them back together as well and I never had a leak.

    But to each his own whatever you guys feel comfortable using



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    Last edited by Controlled Force; 01-10-2017 at 09:46 AM.

  10. #10
    Crackerjack Driver Controlled Force's Avatar
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    Got everything back from the Machine Shop having the crank checked out make sure it's still within specs and everything was hot tank and clean ready to go back together

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